The Bold Coast . . . who would’ve known? Certainly not us. But once we got to know the area around Lubec, we caught the meaning. It totally fit.
And so, it really came as no big surprise when we saw the first road sign that indicated we were traveling The Bold Coast. How apropos. Referring to the first 30 miles or so going southwest out of Lubec, it is a lonely, mostly uninhabited coastline of rocky cliffs dropping into the ocean and solitary coves with wave-washed rocks for beaches. It’s the last undeveloped coastal area in Maine and, in fact, one of the last on America’s Atlantic Seaboard. If you’ve seen the tourist-traveled Maine coastline (which is mainly most of the Maine coastline), this Bold Coast is like a breath of fresh air.
You soon learn that this land is able to arouse a plethora of emotions within you . . . depending on the light and character of the day, it can’t help but stir bold and personal reactions. Even the most staid among us can be compelled to stop . . . and gaze . . . and soak in the atmosphere that is there before us.
Maine’s coastline is made up of diverse landscapes that were created by glaciers that receded roughly 14,000 years ago. The ocean continues to reshape the shores by constantly chipping away at the rugged coastline, tumbling large granite rocks, turning many coves into beautiful cobblestone beaches.
The wildness is left behind as we drive farther down Highway 1. The hills, wooded with conifers and a scattering of hardwoods, are no longer so dark and foreboding. To the north of the road is the Great Heath, the largest raised bog or peatland in Maine, an area of almost 6,000 acres.
This entire region of Maine is now a renowned blueberry-growing area. In point of fact, one little town on our route, Cherryfield, has as its motto “Blueberry Capital of the World”. If what I read is true, this particular county produces 90% of our nation’s blueberry crop. True or not, we soon realize that blueberries, whether fresh-picked, frozen, jellied and jammed or mixed together with other scrumptious concoctions, are ubiquitous. And that’s just fine with us, blueberry lovers that we are. Bring them on, however you please!
We didn’t need to look long and hard in order to see the blueberry fields lining the roadway. The low bush blueberries grow prolifically in the sandy, glacial soil of this region. Now into September, the plants are turning a magnificent scarlet to almost mahogany red in the fall, burnishing the landscape.
And so, continuing down the coastline, our next destination was the one and only, the spectacular Acadia National Park, and to say I was tingling with anticipation would be somewhat of an understatement. Way back in the early planning stages of this epic trip of ours I knew Acadia was a ‘must do’. It would be there waiting for us, halfway down the coast of Maine, as we made our way back from the Canadian segment of our travels. On par with Nova Scotia. Equally a highlight of our travels. Part One was behind us . . . Part Two had just begun.
Credit: http://www.WheelingIt.com
There are three main non-contiguous sections to Acadia National Park. The majority of the park is located on Mount Desert Island, which is separated from the mainland by the Mount Desert Narrows. In addition to the park area, there are a few towns and communities on the island.
The second section of Acadia is the Schoodic Peninsula. It lies to the east of Mount Desert Island, separated by Frenchman Bay. Although only 4 miles as the crow flies, to get to the Peninsula from the island is a 45-mile trip. You’ll need to go back to the mainland, driving north and then east. It takes about an hour or so. There’s also the park ferry taking visitors over to Schoodic, which also takes an hour.
With so much to see and do in the main section of Acadia, most park visitors stay on Mount Desert Island.
The third section of Acadia is Isle au Haut. The island is southwest of Mount Desert Island and accessible by ferry. Only a very small number of visitors make it out here.
Acadia National Park is the oldest national park east of the Mississippi River, and although it is the fifth smallest of our national parks, it ranks as the 7th most popular with 3.5 million visitors in 2017—surpassing the numbers of even the Grand Tetons or Glacier National Park. There’s a Quiet Side to Acadia (more of that in my next post), and then there’s the Forgotten Side—namely, the Schoodic Peninsula.
With stats like those, is it any wonder that it was with great relief that the Schoodic Peninsula would be our first introduction to Acadia? Knowing that the majority of the park visitors would never see this section, with Labor Day behind us helping to taper down the numbers, I had high hopes that we’d be able to see the scenery sans large crowds.
The Schoodic Peninsula is a wide stub of land jutting into the Gulf of Maine. A host of islands and Frenchman Bay flank it on the west, while the little villages of Prospect Harbor and Birch Harbor are on the eastern shore. A thin veneer of woods blankets the peninsula’s rolling, granite hills. Numerous streams and swamps and occasional ponds nestle in the hollows. The very southern tip is where the scenery really gets interesting–a rocky, barren, windswept coastline of broken slabs of granite thrusting into an often-turbulent ocean.
To help visitors navigate around Schoodic there’s a scenic, one-way, 11-mile loop road that mostly follows the contours of the shoreline. If you’ve come by ferry or you just don’t care to drive it, there’s a free shuttle bus (Island Explorer) to take you around. Its stops are indicated on the attached map. It is a delightful drive and we never tired of the scenery and views. There are designated pull-offs for photo ops as well as for accessing trailheads, parking areas for the more popular sights and locations.
Coming from Lubec, we entered the small town of Prospect Harbor, drove through the fishing village of Birch Harbor, before hanging a left to enter the park on our way to the park campground, Schoodic Woods.
Its fame had preceded it. A few years ago I had read an article about a national park campground that was far superior to all other campgrounds in the NPS. So outstanding it was in every aspect, it more resembled a private campground than a public one. I took note way back then, hoping someday I’d be experiencing it for myself.
That day had come. From the moment we turned in, pulling into the registration parking area and entered the visitor center, I was in awe—at the beautifully designed building to the warm and cozy interior (“Just look at that stone fireplace!”). Talk about first impressions! And that was just the intro.
Opened in the fall of 2015, Schoodic Woods is one of the newest campgrounds in the whole NPS and it’s a beauty, with interpretive activities in a 100-seat amphitheater, a cozy fireplace nook in the visitor center, and a location at the heart of the newly expanded Schoodic trail system. Of the 94 spacious sites, 33 accommodate RVs and nine are backcountry-style walk-in sites.
There are two main loops to the campground layout. Instead of tight sites and narrow roads it’s got great, honking-huge sites with spacious roads and more than enough room for any-sized rigs.
Loop A (electric-only) is meant to accommodate tents and small RVs and trailers. Loop B (50-amp electric and water), has mostly pull-through sites (with only three back-ins), so spacious and private that you’ll never see your adjacent neighbors. It’s truly that good.
It shouldn’t come as any great surprise to learn that you need to be reserving a campsite at this jewel of a place as near to the 6-month ahead as you possibly can. Otherwise, you’ll be hoping to get lucky and find a campsite where a reservation has just been cancelled.
Another thing that’s also good about this place (nearly too good to be true) is the fact that this Schoodic segment of Acadia was only just recently entirely donated to the NPS by an anonymous donor. When a 3,300-are resort development was proposed for most of this peninsula, the eventual donor bought up the entire tract of land and then proceeded to lay out trails, miles of gravel bike paths as well as constructing the campground, the very excellent restrooms, amphitheater and visitor center. Once completed, the compound was handed over to become part of Acadia. Quite the awesome story, don’t you think?
Our site in Loop B was one of the back-in sites. So deep and long a site, our truck was nearly out-of-sight. The pull-thrus were even longer . . . plenty of room for the biggest of the big Class As. So incredible a site it made us long to stay at camp, relishing our surroundings and just letting the world go by.
Chris reads by the campfire while I go out scouting for good photo locations.
We spent five full, delightful days basking at our campsite when not out enjoyi
ng the many attributes of the Schoodic Peninsula . . . of which there were many. To make our time here all the more enjoyable, we were joined by Airstream friends John and Harrah. Having met them years ago at an Airstream Rally, we’ve stayed in touch over the years. As it turned out, they live here in Maine and could join us for the duration of our stay. We shared a lot of good times with them, as well as some very congenial dinners out. It was a great way to share the benefits that Schoodic has in abundance.
Harrah and John, a fun couple who made for great company; good sports who knew how to have fun times. It was a pleasure hanging out with them.
And now, if I haven’t done so already, let me give you a glimpse of what the Schoodic part of Acadia has to offer.
Ranger Wall has some good insights and suggestions.
A great introduction to Schoodic is to take the Loop Drive. A segment of the Schoodic Scenic Byway, it’s a 6-mile drive through the park, or an 11-mlle loop to encircle it.
The entire Schoodic Scenic Byway is a 27-mile route that includes the Loop Drive, traveling through the surrounding communities as well as encircling the entire Schoodic Peninsula. It’s a winner of a drive, where you’ll see the unspoiled landscape of what you’d imagine Maine to be. You’ll see lobster boats in the harbors, lighthouses and islands off in the distance while traveling through small villages and towns where artists’ studios and small shops selling handmade items are ubiquitous. There’s good eating too, if you get hungry for a meal or two (fish chowder and fresh-caught haddock are big sellers).
If you’re coming from the west, Winter Harbor will be on the route. A classic Downeast fishing village, it got its name for the harbor not freezing over in winter. For obvious reasons, this made it a much-desired port for the local fishermen and today it still has a fully active fleet of lobster boats and scallop draggers.
Once you drive through Winter Harbor (check out J.M. Gerrish for a wonderful breakfast or lunch—homemade desserts and breakfast pastries are delish!), the turn-off to Schoodic Peninsula is just up the road. You’ll pass by the town’s harbor where you’re sure to see the many fishing boats at anchor. It’s one of the iconic Maine coastline scenes. 
Even before you enter Acadia’s boundary, the scenic views move up a notch or two (or ten). Prepare yourself for coastline scenery that you’ve already imagined Maine to be. This is the essence of Schoodic . . . a wonderfully rugged landscape of thick forests lining the granite formations of the coastline and cobbled shores. The campground turn-off comes shortly after you enter the park, and soon the Drive becomes one-way counterclockwise, with the views elevating to an even higher rating.
You’ll have your first taste of Schoodic’s rocky beaches at Frazer Point, as well as views looking back at Winter Harbor and its nearby islands and coves. But this is just an appetizer of what is to come.
Not an official park turn-out, there’s no marked trailhead either, Raven’s Nest might well be Acadia’s best-kept secret. About 1.6 miles past Frazer Point look for a roadside parking area big enough for 2 vehicles on the left side of the road. The faint trail begins across from here, leading about 100 yards to the cliffs. Prepare to see dramatic views from your perch high above the water. If a vista such as this doesn’t take your breath away, then you must be immune to spectacular sights, that’s all I can say.
From your perspective you’ll see stunning aerial-like views as if you were a soaring bird peering down at steep, jagged granite cliffs dramatically dropping into the tidal flows of the sea below. This is a place you’ll surely return to see in all different lights of the day; a place that’s a favorite of photographers.
And speaking of places you’ll want to return to (not to mention being a photographer’s destination), the next notable spot along the Loop Road would be Schoodic Point. Take a right turn off the road and you will soon arrive at a substantially large parking area. A good rule of thumb when judging the quality of the attraction is to take note of the size of its parking lot . . . you’ll soon realize that Schoodic Point is Schoodlc’s main draw. In all its lights and moods.
If ever there was a windswept, rocky coastline Schoodic Point is one of those places. Facing nothing but the wide-open Atlantic Ocean, thundering surf often slams into the granite rocks.
Exposed and weathered red granite makes up Schoodic Point, where rogue waves aren’t uncommon and, in fact, have been the cause of several deaths here.
Schoodic Point is also a great place to see good examples of diabase dikes. This geological feature resembles long, dark, often vertical shelves or lines of rock throughout the red granite. Diabase is a rock type very similar to volcanic basalt and it often cools between cracks in other rocks, creating these intrusions.
The crown jewel of the Schoodic Peninsula, Schoodic Point offers magnificent views of the open ocean, rugged granite coastline, and Mount Desert Island across Frenchman Bay.
Somedays the waves calm down and actually become quite placid. That is the time to relish the views as you see Mount Desert Island and Cadillac Mountain in the distance . . .
. . . or simply bask in the glow of one brilliant sunset.
They’re not impossible to capture.
Continuing along the Loop Drive, Blueberry Hill is the next major sight you’ll see. Now on the east side of Schoodic, it’s a great place to catch the early morning light warm the rocks with a golden glow.
As you complete the drive and exit the park boundary, you’ll pass by another picturesque fishing village, Prospect Harbor.
Across the harbor you’ll have a view of the Prospect Harbor Lighthouse built in 1891, now standing on U.S. Naval land.
If you haven’t quite had your fill of fishing villages, there’s one more in the neighborhood that shouldn’t be missed. Instead of staying on the Loop Drive, veer off to the east and drive a handful of miles to the very authentic and classic Corea, Maine.
The small village has the feel of being in a time capsule. Easily walked, the sights you’ll see could be as they were a century ago, unaffected by the passage of time.
You’ll find a picturesque working harbor (where have I written that before?) with a fleet of colorful lobster boats and dozens of lobster cages and other fishing paraphernalia, yours for the photographing. Authentic? You betcha! You won’t be seeing any fancy big sailboats pulling into this harbor!
Only one place to eat . . . but it’s more than acceptable. The Wharf Gallery & Grill will please. With good views looking out over that harbor, eating al fresco is the way to go here. Owned by a 6th generation Mainer and lobsterman Joe Young, it doesn’t get any more down home than this! Their specialty is the lobster roll, but their lobster grilled cheese can’t be duplicated (many have tried). Just writing the words can get my mouth watering—oh man, it was good!!! And yes, they have homemade desserts and their lemon meringue pies top off an excellent meal! Worth going the extra miles (IMHO)!
I think you could call this ‘Pure Maine . . . the way things used to be’.
After finishing the Loop Drive if you decide to hang around a little longer, there’s a few excellent trails to choose from. We had the time to do many of them, and I’d say the most rewarding, the most versatile, and yes, perhaps the most challenging, was taking one of the trails to the 440-foot summit of Schoodic Head. It was a great trail that traversed a variety of landscapes (never boring) and gave rewarding, panoramic views from the top. Going down was a little dicey (we should have taken it in reverse order), but we did come through the rock scrambling unscathed.
Our five days here were totally enjoyable . . . how could they not be? With no crowds to compete with, to obscure the raw beauty, it’s easy to feel you have this place to yourself. Maybe all you’ll want to do is find your own place, bring a camp chair, maybe a book, definitely some food and drink, and just veg out. Or, like me, you can’t stay still for long and when the good light beckons or extreme conditions blow in, you go out seeking those iconic photo ops. Sunsets for sure shouldn’t be ignored . . . sunrises, maybe that’s okay to pass on.
I’ll just let these photos close out this Schoodic post.
Airstream Travelers, Melinda & Chris
with more of Acadia to come.
Airstream Travelers 