CALIFORNIA COASTAL TOWNS—A First Look

When it comes to taking road trips, I’ve observed there’s all kinds of travelers.  Some people find comfort in the familiar.  They find a place that suits them, invariably they want to return.  Others seem to always be searching for new horizons, places never seen before.  My Dad was like that . . . a roving spirit at heart, he was always anxious to see what lay beyond the next hill.  And then, there are the others—those that would rather stay home.  Truth be told, my mother would be included in that group.

When it comes to hitting the road, Chris and I are more or less a matched set in that we both consider ourselves avid travelers.  That being said, we do diverge into different travel styles.  Chris is more of the “familiarity makes for comfort” type, liking to return time and again to places that hit high notes.  (Key West being a prime example). For myself, a good trip entails seeing new places–what lies beyond that unfamiliar horizon.  Therein holds the adventure to traveling for me.   Chris, being the good sport that he is, takes that adventure in his stride, but he also finds perhaps equal pleasure just soaking in the ambiance of a tried-and-true place while sitting comfortably in his campsite, good reading book in hand.  Acknowledging these differences while putting together our travel itineraries, the best trip I can map out holds advantages for us both.   And that brings me around to where this winter trip is headed.

More than a month into our current travels has seen us pretty much following previous routes taken on other winter trips.  Except for a short stop to see Memphis, we hadn’t strayed from places already seen.  It was time to spice up this year’s travels and add some new ingredients to the stew.  Thus, I had us continuing on a California Coastal Tour, heading north to places never seen before, checking out some popular towns along the famed Pacific Coast Highway 1.

Leaving San Diego, we didn’t have far to drive.  I had planned a day trip that combined a scenic bike ride while bagging our second California mission.  It all came together quite nicely when the day brought us perfect sunny skies (nothing we were taking for granted having already had plenty of less-than-perfect weather days).

The town of Dana Point has a posh atmosphere.

As the town’s website puts it “Dana Point, Southern California’s original surf town, brings together the best of luxury amenities and a laid-back surf culture to create one idyllic destination.”

But that’s not what brought us here.  We sought out the famous harbor and pulled into its spacious parking area.  After a cursory look around—yes, the yachts were truly amazing—we unloaded our bikes and took off.

The San Juan Creek Trail starts where the creek meets the Pacific Ocean at Doheny State Beach.  From there, it runs on the levee along the western bank of San Juan Creek to eventually arrive in the small town of San Juan Capistrano.  Not a long trail (unless one misses the turnoff and goes a couple miles out of their way—all uphill, I might add!),  but a nicely paved, slightly uphill ride accompanied by beautiful scenery as we biked into the hills that rise behind Dana Point.

Although the town is small and quaint with several cafes and restaurants that look enticing, it’s quite apparent that its business district caters to the tourist trade. And why not?  Simply put, its raison d’etre is all about the famous mission the town was built around.  Mission San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776, was named after a Franciscan saint from the region of Capistrano, Italy.  Thanks to the publicity of the annual swallows migration (and the 1957 song about them that Pat Boone made famous), it is perhaps the most well-known of all the California missions, at least outside of California.

Sadly, it is a shadow of its formal self.  When the original chapel became too small to accommodate the neophyte population, the Great Stone Church was built in 1797.  Fifteen years later, a massive earthquake struck and the church collapsed, evidenced by the ruins that still remain open to the elements.

The four bells that once hung in the Great Stone Church survived the earthquake and today hang in a bell wall that forms one of the mission’s most picturesque features.

The on-site museum contains many artifacts from those early mission days, as well as information about the lifestyle of those days and the many aspects that were involved in operating what was mainly a world unto itself.  An artist’s rendition illustrates the mission in its heyday.

We found San Juan Capistrano to serene setting with a lot of Old World charm.  The mission has been lovingly cared for, easy to give a sense of past times.

The interior of the Serra Chapel, completed in 1782, is the oldest standing building in California.  It has the honor of being the only existing chapel in which Father Serra said mass and performed baptismals.

There’s more to this area than just the mission, however significant it is.  The striking natural feature is Dana Point Headlands, and that was one place I didn’t want to miss.  We biked back down to the harbor, loaded up our bikes and drove the short distance   .  .  .  up.

Although most of the coast in Southern California is developed, there are still some coastal bluffs open for exploration and recreation. Dana Point Headlands is one such area.  From the harbor, the short but steep Cove Road to Green Lantern Drive leads to a public open space area and a Nature Interpretive Center where you’ll find a 3-mile trail system and expansive ocean views.  It is THE place to be anytime of day, but towards sunset this is one place not to miss.

Dana Point Headlands before the harbor was built, 1925 Credit: Wikipedia.com

Today, the harbor is backdropped by the Headlands.

As far as public access goes, this wonderfully scenic place was nearly lost.  The entire 121 acres of natural and rare vegetation, endangered species and beautiful vistas was originally owned by the Chandler family (LA Times fame). Sold to a developer, the Development Plan called for 118 multi-million-dollar homes, a 90-room hotel, and a 35,000 square foot commercial center.  It would all be called The Strands at the Headlands.

As part of negotiations with the California Coastal Commission, the developer agreed to turn part of the bluff into a nature preserve and build $11 million worth of improvements that provided easier public access to the beach below the bluffs.  The multi-story hotel was nixed, and the number of home sites was reduced in scope to just over 100.  So far, it appears only a handful of homes have been constructed, the chaparral is in pretty good shape, access to the beach is still viable by a 2.8-mile loop with appreciable elevation gain, and the one-mile trail (one way) on the bluff has 5 overlooks over the Pacific and the views are really magnificent. Nevertheless, at least in part this will be a millionaire’s paradise on one of the last coastal areas of native habitat in the state.  The Preserve is open daily from 7am to sunset.

And we made it just in the nick of time.  What luck—there was one parking space left.  I was out of the truck like a bullet, armed with my trusty point-and-shoot, headed for wherever the path would lead.

What a sight to behold!  A field of sunflowers spread out before me, stretching out to Land’s End where the neon colors of a promising sunset were forming above an aquamarine ocean.

Wildflowers .  .  .  sunset .  .  .  ocean views .  .  .  oh my!!  Truly a California moment.

Then we moved on and up the coast, slightly more than 100 miles to the sun-kissed beaches and wave-running surfers of Ventura, the start of California’s Central Coast.  Flanked by San Francisco to the north and Los Angeles to the south, this nearly 300-mile section of California has some of our country’s most beautiful coastline.  With winding coastal roads, precipitous bluffs, Pacific sunsets, world-class wine regions and classic beach towns, how could a traveler go wrong?  And as we continued on, we’d take the scenic route, PCH-1.  Lead on!

Ventura, the epitome of a California beach town, with a thriving arts community, miles of beaches and a vibrant harbor, we’d be getting a firsthand experience of that famed California living.  And it would all begin with a camping site situated just feet from the rolling surf.  Time to rev up some of those old Beach Boy tunes!

Yes, I’m getting those Good Vibrations for sure!

And this is what those Airstream panoramic windows are all about—

–bringing that wonderful scenery right into your home!

Faria Beach Campground is small with only 42 sites (only 15 are full hookups), but if you’re lucky with a reservation, this is prime beachfront camping.

With scenery like this and a dedicated bike lane along the Rincon Trail, we were more than ready to gear up and bike our way into Ventura.  Ocean views on one side, rolling inland hills on the other, now this is Biking Heaven.  Find me an outdoor café and that’s all I’ll be asking out of life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ventura’s background shows in its historic downtown cultural district, which began as Father Serra’s final mission settlement.  Walk through downtown to see Mission San Buenaventura and the historic homes, museums, antique shops and restaurants along the palm tree-lined streets.  Having an abundance of family-owned stores, cultural arts and thriving music and foodie scenes, the downtown pretty much covers the gauntlet on things to do. Take advantage of the free trolley that runs between downtown and Ventura Harbor Village stopping at major attractions and hotels.

We found the San Buenaventura Mission to be a quiet sanctuary just a couple blocks from the center of town.  Built in 1782, much of the church has been beautifully restored after the earthquake and tidal wave of 1812.

 

 

 

 

And what a view from Ventura’s harbor.

Ventura was just whetting our appetites .  .  .  we were about to learn that Santa Barbara could easily be the Main Course of California’s Central Coast.  And what a treat was in store for us,  here at the ‘American Riviera’, as it’s sometimes called.

Low-slung between lofty mountains and the shimmering Pacific, chic Santa Barbara’s red-tiled roofs, white stucco buildings and Mediterranean vibe was only 20 miles up the coast from Ventura.  Picturesque, both in its setting and its architecture, the town and its environs hold many photographic opportunities and for me it really clicked.  I became enthralled at first sight.

The oceanfront is easily reached from town, and an easy bike ride away from our campground.

Some towns that are noteworthy for their historical and architectural features are perfect for a trolley tour.  When they are of the hop-on, hop-off type, that’s even better.  Such trolley tours make an ideal way for seeing the city sights, taking stops for as long or as short as it suits you.  Early in our visit we bought our tickets and settled back to see what Santa Barbara had to show.

Founded in 1782 to defend the mission, the Presidio of Santa Barbara was Spain’s last military stronghold in California.  An adobe-walled fort built by the local native Chumash, its purpose wasn’t only to protect.

The Presidio also served as a social and political hub, as well as a stopping point for traveling Spanish military.  Today it’s one of the oldest remaining structures in the city and is a state historic park.

At first sight you’ll understand why Santa Barbara residents are so proud of their courthouse.  Hand-painted tiles and a spiral staircase are just two features that infuse it with the grandeur of a Moorish palace.  Completed in 1929, architectural highlights include specially designed windows, staircases, balconies, a turret and a Roman-style arch and fountain at the entrance.  One of the city’s most popular tourist attractions, going up to an observation area in the 85-foot clock tower is the one attraction most people seem apt to do.  From all four sides you’ll have panoramic views of the city with the mountains and ocean beyond.  Take the free guided tour of the courthouse only on the weekdays—it’ll be sure to enhance your visit here.

Don’t miss the ceremonial chambers on the second floor—it’s truly a sight to behold.  There you will find all four walls covered in murals that depict the history of the Santa Barbara area.  From the 1542 arrival of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo sailing into the channel, to the 1786 founding of the Mission, and lastly the 1846 arrival of John C. Fremont, which marked the beginning of American rule, all 6,400 sq. ft. were painted by Daniel Groesbeck in 4 months’ time.  You’ll soon understand why it’s been called “the unquestionable masterpiece of the courthouse interior.”

The sights just keep getting better on the trolley tour when our bus pulled into the Santa Barbara Mission parking lot.  Talk about making a good first impression—that could be a huge understatement.

California’s ‘Queen of the Missions’, built on a hilltop perch above the city, is one of the most beautiful and frequently photographed buildings in all of coastal California.  Dating to 1786, the architecture evolved from adobe-brick buildings with thatch roofs to more permanent edifices as the mission’s population burgeoned.  The 1812 earthquake severely damaged the existing church, leading to the completion of the present structure, still a functioning Catholic church.  Its interior is as impressive as the outer, a golden patina permeates the sanctuary while the atmosphere is serenely elegant.

A Moorish fountain, built in 1808, graces the front of the mission.  It was the perfect picture for our last look at arguably the most beautiful of all the California missions.

Our Santa Barbara tour wasn’t merely all about architectural and historical attractions as it turned out.  It might be small and understated, but what it lacks in total size is made up for in its setting.  The Santa Barbara zoo sits on land once owned by a coffee and tea merchant.  The pink stucco mansion that once presided over manicured lawns and gardens is gone—replaced by open-air habitats built for giraffes, elephants, monkeys, snow leopards and gorillas.  What hasn’t changed is the surrounding scenery; the Pacific and Santa Ynez Mountains are just as spectacular now as they were back when this was the setting for civilized galas and elegant soirees.

Among the zoo’s most prized residents are the California condors.  On the verge of extinction in the 1980s with less than 30 birds left, condors have made a remarkable comeback and now number more than 400 in the wild and in captivity.  We learned about the success story and saw these enormous birds up close.  But they didn’t seem to care much for having their pictures taken.

Other critters were a little more accommodating.

Spending four full days in Santa Barbara really helped us get a better feel for the whole area, not just taking in the important tourist sights.  Having former neighbors back home who once were residents of Santa Barbara gave us some inside scoops.  Thanks to Scott Ackley, his suggestion to find the nature preserve that looms over Hendry’s Beach was definitely our kind of place.  A late lunch at The Boathouse nearby was an excellent start to the adventure.  Both are highly recommended!

Hendry’s Beach (aka, Arroyo Burro Beach) seems to be a very popular local’s place, away from the center of town.  With the coastal bluffs looming above and the outlet of the creek streaming into the ocean, it was a scenic place to enjoy some good beach time.

Walk or drive up to the Douglas Family Preserve and enjoy 70 acres of trails winding through the natural landscape of a high coastal bluff.  For newbies like us not familiar with this landscape, it was a great introduction to the native habitats of coastal scrubs and woodland oaks.  And the panoramic views were spectacular.

And the views looking inland weren’t too shabby either.

Not to be negligent and leave something out, Stearn’s Wharf is another notable landmark here in Santa Barbara.  Leading out into the ocean from the southern end of State St., it’s a rough wooden pier lined with souvenir shops, snack stands and seafood shacks and even a parking area.  Built in 1872, it’s the oldest continuously operating wharf on the West Coast, although the actual structure has been rebuilt more than once.

OK, so it’s more than a little touristy and the kind of place not usually on my list of ‘don’t miss’ places, except for one notable feature .  .  .

.  .  .  “once on the wharf, expansive views of the cityscape, the harbor, and the mountains unfold from every vantage point on this three-block-long pier.”  Once I read that, I just knew this pier could have potential!

We headed out on an initial exploratory tour.  I liked what I was seeing.

The harbor on one side gives one kind of perspective .  .  .

.  .  .  looking past the Sea Center gives a totally different view.  Perfect.  I had found my sunset place.

While I was busy scouting, Chris took in that Museum of Natural History Sea Center.  Small, but interesting; definitely a learning center for those not familiar with ocean life and tide pools.  A real hands-on kind of place.

 

 

 

 

While out on the pier I was watching the skies, and hope slowly became a reality.  For once, it seemed, I had found a good spot, and the light and sky and clouds all came together in one great sunset show.

Yes, we had good memories here in Santa Barbara, from the natural setting to the downtown scene –both were very satisfying.

Getting caught up in all this California living, I even managed to squeeze in a shopping spree (or three).  Santa Barbara has style (and some pretty darn good stores)!

Not to mention being full of scenic splendor!

Fitting into the California groove,

Airstream Travelers,  Melinda & Chris