Traverse City and its environs would be a very hard act to follow. If you’ve been following my last two blogs, then you know of what I’m speaking. Great scenery, superb biking, delightful towns all packaged together with ideal fall weather were the memories we carried with us as we made the drive up the coastline of Grand Traverse Bay. How could our luck possibly hold out? How could Petoskey hold a candle to what had come before? Yet, even if it didn’t reach such high bars, it still had great potential.
And we should know . . . we had included the Petoskey area in that fateful June excursion. We had seen what the town and its surroundings had to offer and found it all very attractive. Trouble was, we hardly had a taste. No biking excursions, no hiking trails, nary a scenic drive . . . mostly sitting around our campsite and walking the campground roads was the extent of that Petoskey visit. This time would be different, drastically different. We were in prime condition and I was determined to make the most of all six days of our stay!
And right from the start I knew things were going better. The drive into Petoskey was absolutely stunning . . . views of Grand Traverse Bay along the way . . . its crystalline clear water in mind-blowing shades of blues and turquoises and aquamarines all coming together with a sky to complement in the deepest blue a clear day can give. It was so absolutely captivating I had to have Chris pull over for a photo op—no easy feat when towing along a busy highway and needing to make a left-hand turn, mind you. But good fortune (or perfect coincidence) was ours! A roadside park was just up ahead and Chris’ driving reflexes were spot on! We made a quick pull in (and thankfully had enough room to maneuver a turn-around) and caught the shot!
(And he even took the time to get out his drone!)
The drive portended good days ahead. We knew our campground wouldn’t disappoint, having stayed at the Petoskey KOA in June. More of a RV resort than your average KOA, it did come with lots of perks. What especially rang our bells was its laundry (a very needed option) and its ideal location (just a stone’s throw from a great bike trail). We set up for the duration and soon were doing what we do so well—enjoying the camping life.
A nice, private, spacious site was one of the perks of this KOA.
I’ve got to admit, the town of Petoskey can easily hold its own with Traverse City and Suttons Bay. A charming lakeside community, the town is known for its great water views, Victorian architecture, historic Gaslight Shopping District and Michigan’s state stone—the Petoskey stone. As we cruised into town along Hwy-31, passing Bayfront Park gave a fine first impression. A town that makes good use of their prime waterfront location is sure to garner great expectations.
Between the Park and our KOA, the highway passes by one of the most eye-catching historical districts you could ever hope to come across. We would later learn that these elegant Victorian homes built on bluffs overlooking the Bay are part of the Bay View Historic District and are, of course, listed on the National Register. This town is beginning to hit all of my high notes. How could it not?
And the Bay View Inn, adjacent to the neighbor-hood, makes its own elegant statement to the overall character of the district. Obviously a popular place and with waterfront al fresco dining, I only wish that we had at least eaten there!
By the summer of 1874, the railroads were making regular runs between Grand Rapids and Petoskey. The lure of sapphire waters, sandy beaches and cool summer nights was beginning to become popular with the wealthy from down-state Michigan. The 
transformation of Petoskey was rapid and striking, growing from a sleepy lakeside village to a dynamic, busy town catering to the needs of sightseers and summer residents. Luxury resort hotels were built near the railway depots and by 1890, a substantial number of shops had sprung up along what is now Lake Street, creating a very unique and classy shopping area. These shops catered primarily to the affluent resorters, and became the core of what is now called the “Gaslight District.” Today, this picturesque district has evolved into a year-round shopping area as well as the heart of the town, nestled in the midst of great bluffs, rolling hills, and overlooking a jewel of boundless blue water where glorious sunsets are a common occurrence.
A shopping area for more than 100 years, this district is bursting with independent shops, boutiques, and galleries. Downtown Petoskey also features great views of Little Traverse Bay, fine dining and small cafes, and of course, streets lined with its namesake historic gas lights. I must admit to speaking from personal experience, this shopping mecca will have even the most reluctant shopper swiping their plastic at least a time or two.
But the show must go on (shopping could wait for another day), and we were looking forward to the Main Event—namely, another great bike ride. If the Old Mission ride was the most anticipated, then the Little Traverse Wheelway was the one to test my mettle. But after conquering all the hills of that last ride, what was a mere 40+ miles of a rail/trail ride? Bring it on!
Days don’t come much better than this one!
Give me lovely water views on a bike trail and I could peddle forever—well, maybe not all at one time. Nevertheless, the Wheelway is entirely about the views and that’s all the inspiration I need. (Of course, a food stop now and then would never hurt). And so, this biking trail simply had my heart singing. And where my heart leads, my legs will surely follow.
One of the most beautiful paved paths in Michigan, this 28-mile long Wheelway provides cyclists, inline skaters, walkers and joggers with incredible scenery while connecting three of the most popular resort towns in Northern Michigan; namely, Charlevoix, Petoskey and Harbor Springs. Its highlights include a half-mile stretch of boardwalk through an intriguing wetland just before entering Charlevoix, while the segment from Bay Harbor to Petoskey’s Bayfront Park hugs a huge bluff that rises above Little Traverse Bay. This particular section, about a mile-and-a-half long, is the crown jewel of the pathway and has been dubbed “the Miracle Mile”.
Our first ride along the Wheelway would be the stretch leading to Charlevoix. A fitting destination after biking more than 21 scenic miles, we’d find good food and some interesting town sights before returning to Petoskey.
Swinging through Petoskey’s Bayfront Park, I’m taking off on one of the best rides of this trip.
Few users of this trail understand that the path around the bay, first used by Odawa Indians as a trailway, was subsequently used as a bicycle path in the 1890s. A wooden “Wheelway” was built specifically for use by cyclists, and signs were posted “No Teaming or Driving” that prohibited horses from using this path. In the early 1900s the trail was taken over by a train that transported resorters from Petoskey to Harbor Springs. By the 1970s the tracks were no longer being utilized and by the 1990s segments of the reclaimed trail opened to cyclists with more to follow until the trail’s completion in 2009.
When undertaking such a lengthy trail as Little Traverse Wheelway, it never hurts to partake of a little refreshment break along the route. A morning latte stop was just what this biker needed to give her more lasting power. What better place to do it than the posh Bay Harbor Resort? Talk about the crème de la crème of Petoskey’s resorts …if you want to get an eyeful, just take a look at this. Seeing it in person is believing.
And their Marina, although slightly past “The Season”, was still impressive to take in.
Following the latte stop, it was all back to nature after that. And what a pleasure we found it all to be.
From the green lushness of a forest trail . . .
. . . to the lengthy boardwalk ride through a nature preserve wetlands.
All topped off with stunning lakeside views from overlooks suspended over the water.
This wasn’t just an exercise in bagging a set number of miles . . . this was a ride to savor and linger a bit along the way. A good ride is about more than building stamina; it’s a chance to feel a part of what’s around you. And this was a very good ride.
And then, of course, there was the destination. Charlevoix, is another (dare I write it?) charming Northern Michigan town. Admittedly, I seem to be overusing that word somewhat on my recent blogs. But it totally fits. Much like Petoskey and all the others that have come before, Charlevoix oozes with appeal. And, just like those other towns, water views play a big part in that attraction. But that’s not all there is to this town . . . another, more discreet attraction, is found here in Charlevoix.
Entering the city limits to bike through some nice residential areas, we ended up at one of the town’s iconic landmarks, the drawbridge spanning Pine River Channel. This double-leaf bascule bridge with car traffic from Rte-31 crossing over, is located right in the center of town. Every 30 minutes, when necessary, it opens for boat traffic to pass under.
A good place for lunch—and yes, we were ready—stands adjacent to this bridge. If you’re looking for a pleasing menu and a place rated high for their food, you can’t go wrong to try the picturesque Weathervane Restaurant, IMO. Al fresco dining with an unbeatable view will be the added perks.
Located directly on the Pine River Channel which leads into Round Lake and the municipal marina, we had great views in both directions. One way had us looking toward the South Pier Light that marked the entrance from Lake Michigan . . .
. . . while the opposite way gave us a ringside seat to watch the parade of boats passing by.
Al fresco dining doesn’t get much better than this.
But the treat of the day and the big attraction of Charlevoix would come after we’d finished with lunch. Tucked away in residential areas of Charlevoix awaited surprises one would never have expected. This town has the distinct honor of being the repository of a very unique style of home.
Earl Young, a resident of Charlevoix since a young age, was a realtor by trade, as well as a self-taught photographer, builder and mason. He was never a registered architect, dropping out of the University of Michigan’s School of Architecture after a year, saying it was too stifling for him by only emphasizing Classic and Victorian styles. Nevertheless, he spent most of his professional life designing extraordinary homes and buildings, all here in Charlevoix.
To call them ‘unique’ could be understating the obvious. Sometimes called Hobbit houses, gnome homes or storybook houses, if you look at Young’s designs you might see hints of a Swiss chalet, a Cotswold cottage, European castles or even Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie Style. They are commonly known as simply ‘mushroom houses.’ Most are marked by whimsical chimneys, wavy rooflines clad in shake shingles, arched doorways, turrets and creative fireplaces. Illustrating his fondness for curved lines, you’ll often see curves in doors, windows, roofs and fireplaces. His attraction to stones and boulders was reflected in all of his creations.
From his youth and throughout his lifetime, Young had a connection with rocks—from the lakeshores, the fields, and the quarries of Northern Michigan. So fascinated he was with interesting specimens, he was known to collect and then bury them in marked locations, or merely drop them in the woods somewhere, waiting for the day when those rocks would be used in one of his designs. “Stones have their own personalities,“ he told a reporter back in 1973. “People say I’m crazy when I say so, but they really do.” Most of his homes are constructed with stone, limestone, fieldstone and boulders he found throughout Michigan and transported back to Charlevoix.
Taking inspiration from the earth and landscape, Young employed ideas from the emerging architectural styles of his time. Many of his homes were of the arts and crafts style, with influences of Frank Lloyd Wright showing through. Similar to Wright, Young designed each of his homes to blend into its surroundings. But, unlike Wright, Young worked without blueprints, often simply sketching pictures in the dirt to show his workmen what he envisioned.
Some of his homes are quite modest in size, more like a cottage than a house. But as experience was gained and his designs more complete, his homes also increased in their size.
Working with an architect on his first design, the Thatch House is Young’s first major home. Purchased by Michael Seitz, who designed and added a new roof which he thought better suited the house, he went on to completely update the interior. For a look at some of those rooms, you should check them out here. Very interesting!
And then, there’s the home known as Boulder Manor. Reportedly, it was Young’s true pride and joy, and a labor of love. With the design in his head for years, he knew it would not be easy to build. Construction began in 1928, but he lost the property during the Great Depression, eventually regaining and completing it in 1939. Incorporating such massive boulders, both inside and out, was a huge feat and what makes it so stunning to this day.
Photo credit: www.mushroomhousetours.com/2019/03/16/boulder-manor/
During the final construction phase, Young built a children’s playhouse behind Boulder Manor. Complete with electricity and a working fireplace, he claimed it was a place for his 4 children to hang out while he was busy with the construction.
Built in 1948, the low-slung Sucher House was one of Young’s commissions and, at 2,400 sq. ft., his largest of all homes. Sitting along the southern shore of Lake Michigan and nestled among the trees, it was for sale a year ago for a mere $2.75 million. If you want to see a peek inside, check out this link.
All of Young’s buildings are seen as a gift to Charlevoix and today people come to visit, specifically searching out these mushroom homes. The Charlevoix Historical Society provides a map to these houses for printing out. You’ll also find official tours given in Charlevoix. Or, you can do as we did, and just bike around to the various locations. Whatever you choose, you just might find it as fascinating as we did and a great way to spend an afternoon.
Biking to Charlevoix was a full day for us, but you can be sure the ride back to camp was just as wonderful as in the morning . . . albeit, without the latte stop. The coming days would be equally full, as you’ll be reading in my upcoming Part Two. Suffice it to say, there’s plenty to see and do in the Petoskey area.
I did in fact find one location that attracted me, especially as my days were winding down—the nearby Petoskey State Park. Situated on the east end of Little Traverse Bay about halfway between Petoskey and Harbor Springs, the park occupies a prime piece of real estate. Its mile-long sandy beach surrounded by heavily vegetated sand dunes makes it a popular spot, especially in the height of summer. But it’s the other times, when crowds thin out, this park’s claim to fame is most apparent.
It only took one visit for me to realize the potential this park presented. With the light shimmering down on cerulean waters that were backed by wind-swept dunes, it occurred to me why Petoskey is known as “the land of the million-dollar sunsets.” I was determined to return to this stretch of beach to catch the golden rays of a sunset.
Petoskey State Park has more to offer than the potential for noteworthy sunsets. Having 303 acres of preserved land set aside, the park has two separate campgrounds. While Tannery Creek has 100 sites with concrete pads, it’s more suited for RVs and trailers. The Dunes Campground with its 80 sites, has roads that are tighter and sites somewhat smaller, with a more rustic, close-to-nature feel. All sites have electrical hookups, picnic tables and fire pits. Although not in sight of the water, they are both a short walk through the dunes to access the sandy beach. I hear that summertime really brings the campers out and most all the sites are filled.
Fortunately, our KOA campground was a short 10-minute drive away and you can be sure that I soon knew that route well. Many an evening I would make that drive, enjoying walks through the dunes, the solitude of an empty beach and how afternoon light warmed the color of the sand. It’s not a bad way to spend time with yourself, letting your thoughts drift where they may.
Not wanting to extend this blog much longer, I think I’ll close out the story here. There’s more to come as our days progressed, more interesting places to write about. For now, it seems fitting to leave you here, in this small cove of Lake Michigan where postcard views of sunsets seem to be the rule rather than the exception.
It’s a place one might never get their fill of.
Airstream Travelers, Melinda & Chris,
relishing those Petoskey days.
Airstream Travelers 